Saturday, September 25, 2010

Valencia 9/24 by Abi Shapiro

A new day has dawned on the RV Heraclitus; an expedition completed, captain departed and expedition chief off on land to the place where the ship was designed effectively leaves this beautiful entity in our hands. Excitement pulsates throughout the ship as we organize ourselves and find our own methods of creating a synergetic flow of energy with which to operate.

Last saturday morning was met with tear filled eyes as we bid farewell to our beloved captain. He was sent off with good tidings and a full stomach, following a magnificent night stuffing ourselves on a gourmet dinner created from the exquisite meats and cheeses of Valencia's Mercado Centrale. Each crew member regaled the Captain with a heartfelt speech to which he responded with kind words and advice of his own. The Evening was concluded at the beach where the wind bid it's own farewell with an unexpected thunderstorm; the rain whipping our faces and lightening striking down around us as we made our way back to the ship was the perfect ending to a glorious chapter aboard the black ship.


The past couple days have consisted of more meetings and list making than we care to admit to, but the results are already shining through. Everyone is settling into their new (and old) roles comfortably, ship work and maintenance has been prioritized, schedules written and food supplied. The lovely crew from the neighboring customs ship continue to greet us warmly and offer their aide (as well as they're prosciutto ham!) and were instrumental in assisting us with setting up shore power this afternoon. We have a lot of work ahead of us, but we are ready, willing and able to continue in the Heraclitian tradition which so many people have poured their hearts and souls into.


Friday, September 10, 2010

Voyage from Tangier to Valencia, September 10th 1010 by Claus

20:00 Zulu
38.44'N
0.28'E

Morocco was all worth it and beyond.
Thank you Manno, Gordon, Pablo, Omar – the fine gentleman that caught the lines upon arrival, just after sunset 3 weeks ago after a rough crossing under reefed mainsail across the legendary straits of Gibraltar.
Tangier was so very civilized and colorful and different – maybe even more so during Ramadan.
At the end of quay no.2 next to some giant cranes and rotting fishing vessels from other times, right at the rough and busy entrance to the port we tied our mooring lines – Heraclitus permanently watched and protected by police in uniform, Heraclitus somehow at home.

We felt the magic of another world, the magic of ancient rituals and beliefs that had been alien to most of us:
Breaking the fast on the market, haggling prices, feeling the gentle touch of pick pockets or learning to smile away hustlers….Marveling at great architecture, snake charmers delicate craftsmanship, hard working people and the enchantment of the ancient Medina.
The magic calls for prayer…
A real port – dirty but organized, windy and very busy with ferries and a huge local fishing fleet, the packing and loading of hundreds of sharks, giant blue fin tuna or many dogs and thousands of cats gave no chance to rats – all accompanied by the typical stench of a working fishing harbor.

Heraclitus radiated its magic in the harbor and beyond:
French Captain Varaillon Laborie of the Biladi became a fan, Tahir Shah and his beautiful wife Rachana hosted and spoiled some of us with good company and great conversation in Casablanca. We felt the power of Jajouka and found an unusual team of mooring men in the chief of police and the manager of Comarit, when finally taking off our lines from the African continent four days ago.

A crew of nine set out to sail the last leg of a great voyage.
We had a westerly gale forecast and that is what we got. Heraclitus took it with humble endurance and was flying towards the east with up to 9 knots in a short steep Mediterranean sea under blue or starry skies. Very difficult to hold a course that night and we saw plenty salty water shooting all over the deck and loads making it into synesthesia creating some never seen swimming pool action – to be bailed and pumped in the middle of the night by the happy crew.
We made radio contact to Jean Robert from Biladi in the first stormy night and yesterday to everyone's excitement we even rendezvoused some 30 nm miles east of Cabo de Palos. All of us on deck, jumping up and down while 20.000 tons of Biladi was racing past with 20 something knots, honking her horn on her way to France.


Now we are just 60 nm away from Valencia Spain and have stopped the engines in very calm seas to take a breath and marvel at the outrageously beautiful silhouettes of the Spanish coast at Cabo de San Antonio. The new moon is diving into the horizon while Camaron is singing to us a welcome welcome of his latitude......

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