The Route in the Caribbean

Heraclitus will set sails from Trinidad December 15, 2009 and head via Grenada and the Grenadine Islands to Puerto Rico- ETA January 9, 2009. If you are interested to join that voyage, there are still spaces.

We will be sailing across the North Atlantic by the end of April 2009, to arrive in Tangers, Morocco on June 10, 2010. The voyage will take between 40 and 60 days, depending on winds and currents....

Article in Living Green Magazine

Living Green Magazine - Ocean Trek: The Voyage of the Planetary Sailing Ship Heraclitus By Candy Jones

The roots of Love

- Hey, Rosemary, I am bit tired
- Of what?
= I am a bit tired of staying here, you kow, you just arrived but I am here sicen December.
- You mean December 2008? That's almost one year ago.
- Exactly. I grew up in South Africa, in a garden of a beautiful farm on the Red Hill, on the Cape of Good Hope.
- Wow, it sounds amazing.
- It was. I had a really nice time there, since Michelle got me and took me on board. But honestly I always dreamt of travelling and so... I am happy here. You know, we are plants, we are meant to have roots digget into the ground, PLANTED...
But in these vase we can travel.
= It's true, but I am a bit homesick.
- I understand... where were you living?
- Just on the other side of the hill in a little garden in front of the house of Deni.
- oh, here they will take care of us. Michelle and then Juju, they gave me so much love. And now Gilson and this Italian guy, what is name... Dario...they give us all we need.
- You mean water? No, not only.. They came here, they talk to us... they give attention, care. If it doens't rain, they give us water.... not like the other 2, so abstemious,,,-
- Who do you mean?
- Cactus and Cactus. Haven't met them?
-no
- Of course, they are always in Nemo,,, Anyway. soon we will move on. I heard they wonna go to Puerto Rico and then to the other side of the big Ocean.
- Isn't it scary?
- No, not scary. You need to get used?
= Seasickness you mean?
- No. I wasn't seasick... I am talking about the blue, the movement... With Alohe Vera and Onion we had great fun but aslo some hard times. You know... you need to watch out from the water... it's like fire
- Water like fire? What do you mean?
- Sea water... you cannot drink it. It will kill you
- Wow... i didn;t know...
- Yeah... but if it's to rough they will protect us.
- Who?
- These guys... You know what... I feel like going for a walk. I need to stretch my roots. Wonna come?
- no. I am ok here...
- Hey don't worry. If you will make it to the other side you will meet a lot of Rosemary and basil... Its' full on the Mediterranean Sea.
- you know so many things...
That's how it is staying here, Many people coming on board and they sit righ here, where this table is to talk and laugh. It is good fun... Ok, i go now...

And the first root moved on...



Photo and text by Dario Sorgato

Five escaped to Scotland Bay

Heraclitus left Chaguaramas anchorage yesterday morning during a strong blow from the south and is now anchored in tranquil scotland bay just 2 miles further west.
Although we had intended to leave and fortunately had prepared the ship to raise anchor, it turned out to be a rather exciting escape for us.
Huge dark clouds approached from the south and the weather hit with strong gusts, heavy rain and big swells. Our deck tarps were down already, the deck ship shaped, portholes and hatches closed and main engine running.
3 yachts in close vicinity started dragging and all others were swinging wildly on their moorings. We were dropping big fenders over the portside and smiled at the indonesian crew of our neighbouring fishing trawler which at times seemed to get close enough to shake hands..
No more time to wait for the weather to settle down so we raised our anchor from the rocky sea floor and started to motor through the very crowded anchorage of Chaguaramas towards the west in a heavy squall.
During all of this a cardboard box, home to about 1000 bees that had landed the night before on board RVH went flying over the deck and Dario almost broke his fingers when slipping down the command room ladder while having his hands caught in the deck hatch. The mad tidal currents that were strongest right when we had to move did not help.
We reached Scotland bay after about 45 minutes and managed to drop the hook well and fast to claim our territory, just before another smaller yacht that was also desperately trying to re anchor ...
Dario is fine, the anchor dug in well (Eddie and Captain Claus were diving on it this morning), instead of power boat engines ,sandblasting and other industrial machinery, we are now listening to parrots, monkeys and wind caressing the forest or just sublime silence.

Brazil to Trinidad brave crew

Heraclitus anchored in Chaguaramas now!

'Heraclitus arrived this morning in Trinidad after a very gentle voyage....'the Captain wrote.

The plan is to stay in Trinidad until mid December exploring the island, getting involved with the Caribbean culture, hopefully getting close to some steel drums and perform our version of the 'Midsummer Night's Dream'. There are also some maintenance and repairs pending and we are waiting for the new battery bank to arrive.

Trinidad is a good time if you want to visit while there or join for the voyage further North via the Grenadines to Puerto Rico and onwards across the North Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Send inquiries to christinehandte@gmail.com.

Getting closer....

Heraclitus left Brazil & soon to arrive in Trinidad!

Drums calling drums!

By Dario Sorgato

We Just finished our daily drumming class leaded by the crew member Augusto when in the silent sharp light of the early Saturday afternoon of the delta of the Rio Parnaiba a shrimps fishing boat started moving towards Heraclitus. The approach was sound tracked by the loud beats of Maracatu and Ijexà drums.
Two local groups of drummers and dancers, Boi Dominante and Caroço de Dona Elza, where coming to play on board of the black ship. I was watching the scene from the beach of Croata and I had immediately the feeling that something powerful was happening. The water of the sea mixed with the river became the stage of a cultural exchange. The air was fulfilled and soon the red deck was overloaded with ladies in coulurful dresses, children and drummers.
After the guests visited the ship the show started and Dona Elza and Dona Elisa started singing and dancing telling the stories and legends of the local culture. The joyful atmosphere invited immediately to a coral dance and the crew and the bands mixed their movements around capstain and hatches.
After a few songs a new dancer overtook the stage: a bull, representing a legend of the local tradition. It was dancing ina really particular way, moving all around the shining cloths. An unusual instrument made with crocodile skin and a rubber stick was reproducing the sounds of the bull moo.
As soon as the queens concluded they performances, we agreed to show how between watches, duties and explorations we learned how to play percussions. One, two, three, four. Capitain Claus started to play the agogô, a doucle bell of the candoblé tradition. Then the all crew joined the maracatu and Ijexá rhythm, playing the three candomblé drums, named according to the decreasing size, Melê, Biancor and Ian, a couple of djambé and the Agbê, a shaker made with a cabaça (gourd) and a net of beads.
We ended playing some songs all together, dancing, singing or just talking and laughing till we exchanged some presents as a memory of this intense moments. They gave us some CDs and DVDs of local bands, Brilho do Delta, Bumba-Meu-Boi Mscunâ, Bolizinho Precioso, one of their big maracatu drums and a Xequerê, a shaker similar to the agbé.
We gave a signed picture of Heraclitus and moved by theier kindness Xtine decide to offer the agbé she made on the voyage from Salvador to Natal.
By sunset the 30 guest where on board of their blue and orange boat and they started making theier way back Tutoia with the same energy the brought on board: loud sounds and brasilian rhythm while the sun was gently hiding behind the cocunat trees offering its daily show in this untouched paradise.

Heraclitus anchored in Croata, Parnaiba River Delta!

Piloting over the sand bar into the uncharted river delta, with the local pilot Fininho expertly guiding us. Onboard also Manno who spent the first 3 years of his life on Croata and is now returning after over 20 years. 

The crew is exploring the island and hosting new friends onboard. This is our last stop in Brazil and soon we will set sails again for the Caribbean. 

New crew member Jordi Campillo Hernandez  from Spain. 

 

Croata with the rising moon. 

And Heraclitus with the setting sun...

Arrival in Natal!

En voyage from Salvador to Natal........Bready to Go!

Anchored in the River

R/V Heraclitus is anchored in the river in Natal now. It was a spectacular entrance this morning, perfect timing with the tides - now 5 days here and then off to Maranao with our new and old time crew member Manno. 

Sailing to Natal!

R/V Heraclitus will be setting sails for Natal, about 600 nm from Salvador on July 12- ETA July 20. From Natal the voyage will continue to Tutoia, in the North of Brazil. Mid August we will be leaving Brazil heading for Trinidad. 

Heraclitus in Salvador

Arrived in Salvador yesterday---now here in the main port until July 8, 2009.

There is space in paradise!

Estimated time of departure from Salvador July 7, 2009- off to near Sao Luiz in the North of Brazil. Departing from there August 15, 2009 for Trinidad with possible stops in French Guyana, Venezuela. Then from Trinidad to Isla Margarita, Grenada and Puerto Rico in December 2009. 

An expedition fee applies of US$ 1,200/month. You must also make a travel deposit of US$ 1,000 (you'll get this back when you depart) and pay for visa you may need. Full participation in ship's operation (watches at high seas) and expedition required. Can be strenuous, you must be in good health. It's advantageous if you speak fairly good English. 

Send one page about who you are, what inspires you to participate and a recent photo- to christinehandte@gmail.com and rio@adventure.org

Route can change of course- due to winds and circumstances. 

Cheers from the Crew!

Arrived in Bahia- Itaparica Island!

Heraclitus arrived in Bahia on June 16- we dropped anchor in Itaparica first--and from here we will move to other anchorages around the Bahia Todos Santos and eventually to Salvador. 

The Crew in Abrolhos

From top left- Marcelo (Brazil), Orv (USA), 

Gilson (Brazil), Claus (Germany), Xtine (Germany), Eddie (Solomon Islands), Michele (Canada), Debra (USA), Juju (Brazil), Luiz (Brazil), Sergio (Brazil), Amaran, conservationist from Abrolhos, (Brazil), Bruna (Brazil)

Getting Fuel in Angra dos Reis

The Heraclitus went alongside a floating fuel barge...a long day before departure...loaded half a ton of food, but now we are really ready to go, the SW winds are supposed to come on Sunday....

Artists

Debra Berger is sailing on Heraclitus!

Leaving Parati

The Heraclitus is sailing to Salvador now, estimate to arrive there June 15, with stops near Cabo Frio, Abrolhos, Camamu and anywhere to wait for good winds or get fresh food.
But before we left, we had a fantastic Marakatu good bye Party- led by Aughosto, who is going to join us in Salvador to also teach us how to 'Marakatu'...

Synergetic Eyes

In the spirit of applying synergy to all areas of the ship our current visitor Corina Del Carmel, an artist friend from Mexico, enhanced, while in Paraty, Brasil, the ships eyes originally painted by George Blake in South Africa. Thanks Corina!

Theatre

Always on the ship theatre is a time for creative fun and exploring the inner life. Here we put on a show for our visiting international and Brazilian guests.
Photos: Dario Sorgato and Craig Inglis

Music and Dancing

Any excuse for a party! Birthdays, full moons and celebrating the solstices. Hula Hooping was one way discovered to burn off the chocolate cake calorie karma.

Photos: George Blake

Learning Learning

There are many things to learn on the ship; from the rigging to baking bread. Always, the result first time is the most memorable.
Photos: Dario Sorgato

Students of the Unexpected

Attention is the name of the game on the ship. One has to be ready for anything whether it is a squall suddenly appearing out of nowhere to the really unexpected; when in this case the shackle on the main sail broke and the sail crashed down. Here you see the heroes of the week Captain Claus and Eddie hanging for many hours repairing the sail.
Photos: Craig Inglis

Strange Characters

On the ship one never knows who you will meet while going on watch. You also think that you may know your fellow crew members; then one day ........

Voyages - Inner and Outer

On a long crossing such as this one, it is for the crew, a voyage of discovery; both inner and outer. From the emotion of watching the disappearing Cape of Good Hope to the excitement of seeing land for the first time, there is much to be digested; on many levels.

Photos: George Blake and Craig Inglis

Changing Latitudes / Changing Attitudes

On the 18th of Feburary 2009 the RV Heraclitus arrived in Paraty, Brasil; her searching eyes brightening while scanning the new verdant continent swallowing the horizon as she approached. She was as happy as the crew after a two month and 4000 nautical mile journey across the South Atlantic. After spending eight months in dry dock the crew and the ship devoured the open sea with her ever changing faces and moods. The journey up the West Coast of Africa was fairly calm, which gave the time to train the new crew who had never sailed before crossing this Ocean.

Winds certainly picked up in the latter half of the voyage, also when we approached a kind of aqueous Dante's Inferno; Rio De Janiro's off shore oil rigs flaming in the misty night. Whales and Dolphins were spotted, the odd visiting bird, yet surprisingly few ships. All the new crew learned the ropes really quickly and everyone contributed to our cultural and educational evenings on board. Portuguese lessons were happening daily and the odd Tango appeared spontaneously as excitement rose closer to approach.

Every crew member is ecstatic that the ship performed so well, that their hands working together with others, made for a creation that carried them safely over a vast distance; and will give the same peace of mind and opportunity to those that join later, for years to come.

Photos: Craig Inglis

Greetings from St Helena

We are posting this blog entry from St Helena, a remote, historic, island in the South Atlantic Ocean. We decided to stop and explore this tiny, ten miles across, volcanic island, owned by the U.K., exile and final resting place for Napoleon, and home to an exotic mix of cultures.

The Portuguese returning from India in 1502 found the island uninhabited, tried to keep it secret, and then claimed it for their own. The Dutch and the British fought over it in the following one hundred years with the British finally becoming its present owners.

Captain Cook, Captain Bligh, Arthur Halley, Charles Darwin, Napoleon and the Duke of Wellington all walked the streets of Jamestown, the entry port to this fascinating cultural and ecological oasis that has erupted out of the ocean.

The crew quickly made friends with the inhabitants, mostly descended from African, Indonesian, Chinese and European. With a population of just over 4000, no airport, no mobile phones, and its remote location, the island reflects wherever you look the influence of past visitors, yet thankfully not overtly impacted by modern day tourism. It hardly appears as if anyone uses the walking trails winding up and around the lush green prickly pear and flax laden hills and valleys. There is a soft timeless quality to the pace of life here and excitement seems to be highest when the fresh fruit and vegetables appear on Tuesday market or the passing ships appear.

Stocked with fresh local provisions, (lots of cabbages) we embark again early tomorrow morning on our expedition to Brazil.

Photos: Craig Inglis

South Atlantic Crew

Ready to go ......

Photo: Craig Inglis

Dry Dock Farewell

It has been an extraordinary time working in the dry dock here in Simon’s Town South Africa for the past eight months. For those involved, the project has been an Odyssey of trials, physically and mentally, filled with a plethora of emotions. There is no doubt that we could only have accomplished our goals without the unbelievable amount of support that was made available to us in the Naval dockyard. Our thanks go out to John Sutherland, Gerald Clark, Rear Admiral Louw, Captain Glen Knox and the South African Navy.

On a regular basis, workers from all over the dry dock; from the riggers and machinists to the crane operators, were only too happy to offer advice and help.

We came to know many fellow workers here and cannot thank them enough for all their help and friendship. We wish them all the best in their future endeavours.

John Sutherland of Armscor gifted a most beautiful plaque to the ship, at a reception for our sponsors.

Thank you once again; your hospitality will never be forgotten.


Photos: Craig Inglis

Pizza Fuel

Many thanks go out to Clair Ryan the owner of Pescados Cafe http://www.pescados.co.za/in Simon's Town. Situated in the one of the oldest standing cinemas in South Africa, built in the 1920's it became our communication hub during out time here. Clair kindly donated an innumerable amount of Pizza to fuel us during our long days at dry dock.

Red Rock Friends

Our neighbours at the Cape Farmhouse Restaurant Steve and Juliette Decombes became fast friends with the crew when we moved in. Owners of not just a shop, but more an Aladdin’s cave with a cornucopia of African artwork, they have been supporting us throughout our time here.

http://www.redrocktribal.co.za/index.html

We wish you all the luck with Red Rock Tribal, may it grow and grow, and thanks a million for all your help.

Photos: Craig Inglis

Angels

We could not have been here operating at the dry dock without the help of Benno and Rose Kopfer. The serendipitous meeting of them at the Cape Farmhouse Restaurant which they own http://www.capefarmhouse.co.za/, led to the most generous offer of accommodation for all the crew as their guests next to the restaurant. A close friendship grew between the crew and the family, and we shared many adventures. Being together for eight months the crew are sad to leave such good friends behind but know that we will see each other again, hopefully not to far in the future!

Benno and Rose we wish you all the luck with your oasis at the Cape. Until the next time, and we thank you so very, very, much from all of us from the depths of our hearts.

Photo: Craig Inglis

Looking Good

All systems are being checked and she is looking good. All the rigging is being attached and the fore sail is the first to go up.

Photo: Christine handte

Success

After seven and a half months in the Naval dry dock in Simon’s Town South Africa, RV Heraclitus entered the water on Wednesday December 3rd 2008. Loud cheers rang out over the dock when she floated of her cradle and the waves started lapping her hull.

The ship was pulled (at first somewhat reluctantly, as if she had put down roots) by a huge tractor along rails then positioned in the synchro lift, which was then flooded.
When all systems were checked the ship was carefully inched forward by Captain Knox and his dry dock team. Due to the high winds we were aided by a tug and temporarily positioned on a nearby dock. Champagne corks flew over the deck and an ecstatic crew toasted again and again and again!

Photos: Craig Inglis

Hull

The hull also got the same protective treatment as the deck, and soon the familiar black and red appeared. George was given the honour of painting the eyes on the bow and Dario gave us back our name on the stern. She looked like home again.

Photos: Craig Inglis

Deck

The deck was prepared, then Ferrogard was applied to protect the internal steel, Sikalastic sealant, Jotamastic 87 primer, and finally a hardtop gloss. This brought smiles to the whole crew to see colour again on the ship.

Photos: George Blake, Craig Inglis and Dario Sorgato

A million and one ...

With such a complex system as the ship there is still a million and one tasks to do – rigging, fuel and water tanks, woodwork, electrics, plumbing, painting, replacing the main mast and propeller etc.

Photos: George Blake, Craig Inglis, Christine Handte and Federica Chimenti

Here Be Dragons!

A Cabaret, performed by the crew of the Heraclitus, was staged at the Cape Farmhouse Restaurant called ‘ Here Be Dragons’. Inspired by the unknown beyond the ‘Edge of the sea’, as the ancient mariners called it, the show was a resounding success and gave the crew a chance to thank those who had become close friends in the community.

FEATURING

Intro
Listen closely mortals, as the king of the gods,
Zeus, creates a poetic debut.
Zeus is played by Craig Inglis

The Dance of the Black Ship
Welcome aboard RV Heraclitus!
This lyrical dance expresses our experience in
South Africa.
Performers; All crewmembers

Here Be Dragons…
When the first explorers began to chart the seas,
they realized that the seas were greater than them.
in the areas of the unknown waters,
they simply wrote: Here Be Dragons…
Dragon created by Federica Chimenti and George Blake,
Fisherman; Barbara Stoeckigt
Musical Arrangement; DJ Eurotrash, Mahabrhata Soundtrack

Mariners Revenge
In the belly of a whale, a cruel captain is
confronted by his sordid past…
Performers; Mariners Federica Chimenti and Michelle Hughes,
Captain Claus Tober, Christine Handte as the ghost mother…
Musical Accompaniment; Nate Maingard
Song Origin; The Decemberists

Journey
This poem turned song reflects on the
voyage we all take through life
Performers; Timothy Wade

Impressions of the Black Ship
A visual insight into the legendary Heraclitus and her crew in their element, the sea.
Created by; Christine Handte
Accompanying Music; The Doors, DJ Elbe

Aomba
A traditional dance of the sea-people from
the Solomon Islands. The dance was customarily performed by the men to give strength
before going out headhunting...
Performers; Eddie Zuna, Claus Tober, Craig Inglis, Tim Wade,
George Blake and Benno

The Octopussys
An alluring, seductive song by four sirens of the sea.
Can you resist?
Performers; Federica Chimenti, Stefani Crone, Christine Handte,
Michelle Hughes

New Crew

In time to help with the Cabaret were our new crewmembers Barbara Stoeckigt (our new medical officer) and Dirk Sikken, both from Germany. Steffen Paetzold also from Germany came shortly after and immediately got our toes tapping with his lively accordion playing.

Photos: George Blake and Craig Inglis

Cement: Second Pour

The areas covered on our second cement pour were Synesthesia dining area, Bio sleeping quarters, Bosun’s locker, Captain Nemo’s library, port side deck and bulwark. All went well, and everything was set up for our second ‘Wet Cure’. Helping us were Benno Koepfer, from the Cape Farmhouse Restaurant and Ashley Scalzi from the U.S.A. Thank you Ashley. Stefani Crone from the Netherlands became our latest crewmember and joined in with our Cabaret rehearsals performing for the local Cape Peninsula community.

Photos: George Blake and Craig Inglis

Pablo and Manno

Pablo Friedlander from Argentina and Manno Franca from Brazil paid us a visit to help with the ship and discuss future projects together. The crew looks forward to meeting them on its South American part of the expedition.
Thank you for all your help Pablo and Manno and we look forward to further journeys with you.

Photos: Craig Inglis

Gift Wrapped

The new cement was clothed in hessian and black tarp then secured with hand made netting to withstand the frequent local gale force winds. The 'Wet Cure' started with a complete soaking inside and out 24/7 for four weeks, the crew took turns staying overnight on the ship. The cement must stay wet for the entire period to ensure the strength.

Photos: Frederica Chimenti

Cement: First Pour - Result

Long exhilarating and exhausting days. Dario looks out from his cement mask, and Craig wonders if he should have taken the Klaus Kinski double job! But look, what a result...

Photos: Federica Chimenti, George Blake and Craig Inglis

Cement: First Pour - Help

On the first two cement pour days we had further help in addition to our Uruguayan friends; Steve Wills, Alexi Mpiana, Jason Gray, Welcome Klaas, Michael Bhoto and Sarah Morris from the Cape Farmhouse.
Steve had been helping us for many months on the dock with his welding. His expert smooth finishing on the cement was much admired. Thanks so much for all your help Steve!
Alexi from the Republic of Congo has also been a most dedicated and long-term volunteer . A big thanks to you too Alexi!
Jason Gray came all the way from the U.S.A. to help us and became cement mixer extrordinaire!

Photos: Craig Inglis

First cement Pour: Push Push

The cement was carried up in buckets to the scaffolding and the deck then pushed through the mesh from inside and outside the ship. There was great excitement in the air, as with the atmosphere of a theatre production. Voices getting louder and cries of ‘Push, Push’ and ‘More Here, More Here’ rang out over the dock.

Photos: Craig Inglis

Cement: First Pour Preperation

The stern and starboard side were the first to be cemented. On the pour days we had the privilege to have volunteers from the Uruguayan navy. After cleaning all the edges of the holes a coating of bonding agent was applied. Then the cement mix was closely scrutinized for the right consistency. Once agreed, we were off and running...

Photos: Craig Inglis and George Blake

Mesh

A tapestry of square galvanized weld wire mesh is layered over the steel bar, three on the inside and three on the out. All watched carefully by the ‘Madonna of the mesh’.

Photos: George Blake and Craig Inglis

Pungi Pungi!

After the decayed cement was removed by hammer, chisel and jackhammer, we cut out all corroded steel, welded new steel web frames and placed new six millimeter high tensile steel rod. Starboard side first, then the daunting stern was attacked.

Photos: George Blake and Craig Inglis

Lifestyle

Federica takes time out on a break to contemplate her lifestyle!

Photo: Christine Handte

Somewhere - Over the Rainbow...

With a slight trepidation the crew started to look at the holes appearing. Nevertheless the constant appearances in the South African sky of rainbows gladdened our hearts.

Photos: Craig Inglis and Christine Handte

Rudder

The rudder and propeller are dismantled and Claus takes the shaft for inspection to the naval machine shop in the dry dock. Dirk Van Wyk is a resident machine engineer and is helping us with a multitude of engineering tasks. Dirk is from the old school, his work is precise, of high quality and he is very happy to pass on his knowledge. We could not have done it without all his advise and help. Thank you, Dirk.

Photos: Christine Handte and George Blake

Rigging Sails and Main Mast

The Rigging was taken down and the sails and main mast hoisted carefully off the ship.








Photos: George Blake

Extraction

Web frame and other weakened steel was extracted to make way for new to be welded under the careful eye of Warren.
Warren is one of the original builders of the ship who graced us with his presence and took pride in passing on his knowledge.
Thank you Warren!





Photos: George Blake

Jack - The Hammer

Meanwhile the jackhammer in the hands of an eager crew makes his appearance and the decayed cement is extracted.





Photos: George Blake and Craig Inglis

Sandblasting

With the scaffolding up, cleaning and sandblasting the hull and deck commenced.






Photos: Christine Handte, George Blake and Craig Inglis

Stripping...

All woodwork, electronics, plumbing are stripped from the ship and the fuel tanks are hauled out by crane then closely inspected and cleaned.





Photos: George Blake

Solve et Coagula

The RV Heraclitus while in dry dock in Simonstown is now close to completing its alchemical transformation. Since exiting the water it has gone through the long process of being stripped down to access the areas needing repair, then undergone the complex and precise steps of rebuilding to ensure a safe and enduring vessel for years to come. Before exiting the water, all contents that could be carried off by hand were stored in containers beside the ship and an office on site established.

Photos: George Blake and Federica Chimenti

The Uruguayan Spirit

The crew bade farewell to the Uruguayan navy this week from the dry dock. Their generosity of spirit was felt by everyone and their presence will be sorely missed. The commander of the fleet Alvaro Aldecosea not only gave the crew lessons on celestial navigation but put on his hard hat and joined in with the repairs. 

Other crew members joined us for the cement pour and Michael was always here with Mate in hand.

                       Buena Suerte Amigos - see you on the other side!

Photos: Craig Inglis & George Blake

Eddie's Back

After a year away from the ship at our sister project Birdwood Downs in Australia, Eddie Zuna, our crew member from the Soloman Islands, is back. He joined us here at the dry dock in Simon's Town and will sail with us across the Atlantic. Everyone is happy to hear Eddie's infectious laugh again cheering us on during the long days. Here Eddie and George are finishing ' meshing' on the stern.
Photo: Craig Inglis

Atlantic Dreaming

The Heraclitus crew currently in Simon's Town South Africa rebuilding the ship in the Navy dry dock by the Indian Ocean, take time after work by the shores of the Atlantic Ocean twenty minutes away to contemplate their future voyage to Brazil.
Photo: Craig Inglis

Inevitably: Land

Tales of sea voyaging on the Heraclitus are easy and joyful to tell. There is no boundary to the landscape of the senses. Your watch splashes silently through the waves of 4AM stars above decks while you are below in the creaking galley, inhaling the scent of the new dough forming between your fingers…yes, even ensuring the foundations of toast feels like a romantic adventure. So when on top of that there are the roiling personalities of adventurous minds that emerge nightly by dramatic kerosene light to dance, demand and discuss, and there are periods of passionate vigilance when the wild environment raises her stakes for survival, and there are unthinkable depths of blue teeming with all the mysteries of life, all pouring in to a body with its windows and doors flung open to the physical work of living at sea, one remembers it all, and fills and fills with the story of it.

Inevitably: Land. There is land as in, ocean floor one can see above the surface of the water. And then there is land where “They have built it, so They will come.” Land that keeps receipts. And usually, the stories are harder to find, harder to keep, and not so exciting to tell.

Not so this time, at the Simonstown drydock. There’s never a dull moment between the peace and solitude of our farmlife, the demands of drydock work and deadlines, and the tremendous generosity and interest we receive from people here.

We get four seasons each day between our stunning drives down and up the mountain to the ship. The ship itself remains a body in motion, as bits of its frame and hull slough off in some places and reappear in others. With hammer, chisel and wirecutters we continue our hunt for the “golden edge” where the cement is sound around Paradise, the main sleeping-quarters of the ship. Meanwhile, the final layer of mesh is going up on the wall of Peter, the portside head. Sandblasting continues on portside and is finished on starboard so that Heraclitus has the look of a ghost, or a great stone. There are fluctuations in the grey representing different sand used from so many locations around the world. Warren, before he left, pointed out that most of the hull below the waterline remains the original cement. “If you leave me now, you’re leaving with the best part of me…Oo-oo-oOOOO, Warren, please don’t go….” We miss Warren.

With the generous help of a local welder, we are getting excellent work done on the steel. Some of the crew is really coming along in their practice of the art as well. The new wiggle bar frames in the floor of command room look great. The generator has a new frame, and steel repairs in preparation for pungy bar continue.

Rehearsals continue for the cabaret, soon to be unveiled.

Chief Christine gave a great presentation in the farmhouse restaurant last week to a full house. We also handed out Jonah’s beautiful t-shirts for the first time as gifts for donations. The shirts have pieces of the previous mainsail and a selection of Sunday toasts on them. They were made available for donations of $50. Next week Christine will give a presentation at the pumphouse of the drydock facilities for our neighbouring crews.

Last night we were spectators at the restaurant for a premiere theatre performance by Kurt Eaglehoff. He did a one-man ‘garage theatre’ piece about four generations of men in South Africa: his Grandfather, father, himself and his son. With incredible agility and expression, shifting between a number of characters in the different men’s stories, Kurt told a great history of South Africa and illuminated the debt that is handed down from one generation to another when we compromise with our own lives. While enjoying some of the farmhouse cuisine after the show, I met and talked with a 1st generation Indian couple who gave me more stories and their own piece of South African history. The demands of drydock keep us from much exploring, so this theatrical expedition was valuable and welcome.

We joyfully received a huge number of donations from Sika two weeks ago. Really great stuff, and soon enough we’ll get round, ecstatically, to pouring cement. We continue to get yummy food donations from local businesses, and our workforce expands with wonderful volunteers. Locals we know from the farmhouse show up when they can, and we’ve had a security guard from the Congo helping us for what seems to be all of his time ‘off,’ and he may be bringing his younger brother along on Monday. He, like many other immigrants in the country, is worried about the recent violence, but he’ll stick it out here for now. Perhaps there’s even a crew of Uruguayan sailors who will take a break from the rugby games on the naval field to come help. New volunteers mean renewed excitement for the work and a chance to meet people from all over the world in a unique environment. There is a lot of searching yet to do for the golden edge, a whole lot of sand to shovel, a lot tie wires to bump and grind, a lot of buckets to carry, and a great many stories to share.

Be well until next time, and keep the voyage going, going, going, and never gone!

“Life is a great fire, kindling in measures and going out in measures.” –Heraclitus.

Posted by Lauren Kennedy

High and Dry

She is High and Dry. On the 21st of April at 1700 the RV Heraclitus in the Naval yard in Simonstown was gracefully pulled out of the water in preparation for dry dock repairs. A huge crowd gathered to watch the manoeuvre under the supervision of dock master John Sutherland. This was a real exciting and emotional time for the crew as their home emerged from it's element after months of preparation. But it's still 'All hands on deck'. And if you fancy doing something different with your hands - please come and help!
Photo: Christine Handte

Admiral Louw attends a presentation evening

Rear Admiral Louw, the Flag Officer in command of the Naval Base in Simonstown attended a presentation on the ship of the history and life aboard the RV Heraclitus.  Also attending was the Dock master John Sutherland and many interested locals and friends. A great time was had by all and pledges of support in some form or another materialised over the rum rations.

The German Navy visits the ship

The German Navy while conducting Naval manoeuvres along with the South African Navy take time out to view the ship in Simon's Town.  

Captain Claus discusses Weather with PeriPeri

Captain Claus discussing the weather to round Cape of Good Hope with Fred from PeriPeri, he is definitely the dude on weather around here and gave us invaluable advise.

The RV Heraclitus needs your support in 2008

Planet Water Expeditions operates the Heraclitus for the Institute of Ecotechnics (USA), a 501 (c) 3 non-profit corporation, and donations to the Institute are tax deductible under U.S. law. In-kind and cash donations may be given to the Institute in support of the general operation of the Heraclitus, or as restricted donations for specific projects.

The officers and staff of the Heraclitus, Planet Water Expeditions, and the Institute of Ecotechnics contribute their personal time, expertise and when possible, funds, to the operation of the Heraclitus and its programs.

The Heraclitus relies on the continued support of its supporters and sponsors, without which its valuable programs would not be possible. Sponsors are recognized on our website and links are provided to the sponsor’s website. In addition, the Heraclitus works with sponsors to provide exposure and recognition for support appropriate to the sponsor’s need.

The Heraclitus welcomes joint projects that synergize with its voyages, routes and ports-of-call, in turn supporting the work of others with similar goals and methods.

Please contact us for further information and to explore possibilities for cooperative projects, and for those who wish to offer their immediate support, donations may be made at any time via PayPal.

Thank you for your support!

http://rvheraclitus.org/support.html

Keep the voyage going, going & never gone...

The R/V Heraclitus has just completed its first leg of the “Coral Sea to Black Sea Expedition, 2006 – 2009,” 11,000 nm since Cairns, Australia. We sailed through the Great Barrier Reef, visited Timor, Sumba and many other magical islands in Indonesia, passed through the Straits of Malacca to Phuket, Thailand, and then on to Sri Lanka, Sumatra and Madagascar. We are living a true mariner's way of life, exploring modern and ancient sea people cultures.

After a challenging and adventurous voyage across the Mozambique Channel from Madagascar, we are now happily docked at the Zululand Yacht Club in Richard's Bay, on the North East coast of South Africa. From here we will depart on January 31, 2008 to become the first junk to round the Cape of Good Hope in 161 years!

Once in Cape Town we will spend several months performing standard maintenance on the ship, which will include a dry-dock. All ships undergo periodic dry-docking in order to inspect their hull and make repairs to below waterline equipment. The Heraclitus is normally dry-docked every four years. Since the last dry-dock, four years ago in Ensenada, Mexico, the ship has crossed the Pacific Ocean and the Indian Ocean twice, as well as cruising the Great Barrier Reef of Australia. We send this to you because you have sailed or appreciated or supported the ship in the past, you share our common dream, or because you are considered a good friend and may wish to help carry out this big dry-docking adventure.

Dry-docking is always a major undertaking that requires significant resources of personnel, equipment, materials, and money. For this purpose, our organization, Planet Water Expeditions, is asking for your support. To date, we have already raised $16, 000.00 (US), and are in hopeful negotiations with a dry-dock in Simons Town, near Cape Town, to give us dry-docking facilities in return for engaging in marine workshops with the local community. We also have several new volunteer crew, in addition to our experienced crew and staff, to help while the ship is out of the water. For those new to seafaring, this is a great opportunity to learn the nuts and bolts of ship construction and maintenance!

As children, inspired through stories by Jules Verne, Jack London and the great adventures of Jacque Cousteau, Thor Heyerdahl and the movies of Errol Flynn, we dreamed of one day living the romantic life of a sailor. We found much more than we were looking for. Heraclitus is a ship that many fall in love with. It is more important than ever to keep this dream alive.What is the Heraclitus?Movable architecture, sculpture, a floating dream,A temporary autonomous zone roaming the world's oceans,A magical space for inner and outer adventure, A training space for people to learn the ways of the sea,Yes and much more!

The Heraclitus never fails to impress or move people. A vessel with a great tradition of performing theatre in ports of call around the world, Heraclitus is a fantastic bridge to other cultures - not only those on foreign shores but also those on board. The Heraclitus is a unique ship. Designed after a Chinese junk, made of ferro-cement, built in Oakland, California, named after a Greek philosopher, and with the looks one would rather expect in a fantastic comic book. She began her dramatic life sailing out under the Golden Gate Bridge of San Francisco in 1975. It is a vessel that enables whoever sails on her to truly perceive and understand the world as one, the earth as a blue planet, as Planet Water.

Heraclitus has sailed the world's oceans more than once, hosted hundreds of crew from all over the world, ran aground several times, wrecked twice on reefs, sunk once in a hurricane; she has seen anger and happiness, fear and joy, faithfulness and deceit, love and hate but somehow always sailed on. She has grown tremendously richer in spirit and character in those decades and is now more than an exceptional ship and unusual home for theatre, science and adventure - some say she has a soul.

Heraclitus has become a legend, a piece of art herself, molded by many hands, from many lands, functional and at the same time a symbol of our common desire for freedom. She has become a planetary heritage and deserves to be maintained, kept up, repaired and restored, to continue an almost extinct life style, to enable a future generation to experience what she has to offer, to give others opportunities to live on the world's oceans.Heraclitus, launched in 1975, is now 32 years old and has sailed about 300,000 nautical miles during her adventurous life. Over the years countless individuals, and many corporations have helped to “keep the voyage going, going and never gone.” Every little bit helps: volunteers skilled and/or eager to learn, logistics support, and of course, cash of any amount. We also welcome building materials, paint, cement, steel, machinery, tools, housing and food for the crew while the ship is high and dry. For cash donations, please see the information at the end of this letter, and for in-kind donations, we can supply you with a more detailed plan and supply list. Anyone joining us during the dry dock will receive room and board for the duration, plus a special rate for those of you who wish to sail on future voyages.

All donors will be rewarded with many thanks, a knowledge that you helped a special ship and expedition, and a special souvenir, which we brought from Madagascar, as part of the new 'Heraclitus Trading Company'. We will also, gratefully acknowledge your contribution on our new website, www.rvheraclitus.org.

Greetings from the Heraclitus!